La Quête des 4000
Fletschhorn – Lagginhorn traverse: beginner's luck32nd 4000 m summit

4 July 2023 · Mischabel

Fletschhorn – Lagginhorn traverse: beginner's luck

The track

32 Lagginhorn0 km19.67 km4010 m

Distance and elevation gain from the Strava tracks; profile drawn from the GPS. Hover over the map or the profile to locate a point along the track.

The figures

19.67km
distance
1749m
ascent
2916m
descent
8 h 25
duration
1
summit
grade
PD+ III P4+

On 4 July 2023 (start 03:29, finish 11:54) · 1 night — Bivouac in a tent

Summits & route

The summit

Day by day

  1. D1Kreuzboden > Fletschhorn > Lagginhorn > Saas-Grund

Climbing partner

Click a name to see their map.

Topos & references

The story

To kick off this new summer mountaineering season, I take Maxence on his very first 4000er, which is also his very first glacier climb! In our sights: the lovely traverse linking the Fletschhorn to the Lagginhorn (the former was once a 4000er, but the melting of its summit ice cap has removed it from that category).

After an approach the day before and a night in a tent at around 2700 m, the alarm is set for 3 a.m. We set off into a superb dark, starry night towards the slopes leading to the Fletschhorn. After a few hours climbing snow slopes in excellent condition, we reach the cross on the Fletschhorn (3982 m), then its true rocky highest point (a little further on, at 3985 m).

The traverse to its neighbour, the Lagginhorn (4010 m), goes smoothly, and we get there before all the other climbers who had set out on the normal route (WSW ridge) from the Hohsaashütte and the Weissmieshütte. That's the route we take back down to the valley.

The verdict: impeccable conditions for our outing, and a very respectable time for someone doing his first 4000er in the Alps!